Chianti Classico， 意大利葡萄酒中一個響鐺鐺的名字。但這個名字在1965至1980年之間，在大部分生產商不注重控制產量和品質的情況下，卻往往代表品質欠佳的紅酒。
此外，雖然今天法例上允許使用上最多20%的非傳統葡萄，如Cabernet Sauvignon和Merlot，但在1984年之前，這不單只不容許，還會規定使用10至30%的白葡萄品種Trebbiano和Malvasia。因此，當時一些高品質的Chianti葡萄酒如Tignanello，由於使用了Cabernet，便不能叫自己做Chianti DOC，而只能以較低級的Vino da Tavola 命名。這令到大部分的Chianti生產商，都不願把它們高品質的葡萄酒稱為Chianti。
這情況到了1984年以後，隨著法例的改變，終於得到改善。新的法例，除了允許使用10%的葡萄如Cabernet外，也對其他方面如產量控制，作出了收緊。Chianti Classico 的整體品質也慢慢開始提高。
更加重要的是，在1989年，有一個叫做Chianti Classico 2000的項目。這項目把品質欠佳的Sangiovese品種拔掉，改為種植高品質的Sangiovese品種。到了今天，市面上已經有很多品質佳，而售價合理的Chianti Classico。其中一間最值得信賴的便是今次介紹的 Castellodi Fonterutoli。
Castellodi Fonterutoli為Mazzei家族所擁有。它的旗艦產品為Castello di Fonterutoli，用法國小木桶陳年16個月，風格現代，果味成熟。和波爾多的名莊一樣，Castellodi Fonterutoli都有生產副牌酒，簡單地稱為Fonterutoli，清新優雅，味道平衡，一向是我Chianti Classico的保險之選。
而這支2007 Mazzei Ser Lapo Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG，由於是一支Riserva，因此雖要陳年三年才可以推出市場。也是這個原因，現時售賣的Ser Lapo為2007年，而Fonterutoli則為2009年。
香氣清爽而成熟，而有頗重的木桶味道，但依然非常平衡。入口感覺同樣清爽優雅，單寧成熟幼細，擁有強烈的酸車厘子味道。一支很容易討人喜歡的Chianti Classico。
購自 屈臣氏酒窖 (原價: $248 / 特價: $208)
Hi Man,
Do you know if the quality of Chianti will improve if it’s aged for a couple more years?
Or should Chianti be just drunk at its early stage?
Recently I realize that the quality of Italian is pretty good given that it is sold at a lower price than Bordeaux and Burgundy.
Thanks,
Will
Hi William,
I’m also very excited about Italian wines. It just got so many different styles and with so many native grapes that make them very interesting.
For the ageing potential of Chianti Classico, it is really down to the quality of the wine. Brunellos and many supertuscans are also based primary on Sangiovese and have proved that they are capable of long ageing. So, a good Chianti Classico should have no problem in ageing.
However, as I mentioned in my blog’s article, this doesn’t apply to those Chianti Classico that were made before, esp. those before 1980s since the quality of Chianti Classico at that time was generally not up to standard. In addition, they may use up to 30% of white grape varieties such as malvasia which makes them not suitable for ageing. But good quality Chianti Classico produced today should be ok and this is proved by the ageing potential of Brunellos and supertuscans.
Thanks